The finished model. For this guide I chose the
GHQ 1/2400 GWG8 "Moltke Class" model.
STEP 1: OVERVIEW
The excitement of opening a new package.
Indexing the content and cleaning up any flash.
STEP 2: GLUING & PRIMING
The cleaned model is glued together (no turrets yet),
and glued to the base.
A base coat of matte black is applied.
STEP 3: PAINTING THE HULL
I always try to find some color pictures on google of
the ship I¨m about to do, just to get the nuances right. I've found a certain
scale of gray, that seems to fit very well with the German WW1 naval gray.
STEP 4: PAINTING WOOD & RUSTY METAL
Working my way around the model on any wood bits,
like life boats and rusty metal like anchor chains.
The model after steps 1-4
STEP 5: PAINTING THE DECK
The deck is extremely important. Its what gamers will mostly see,
and the first thing you'll notice when looking at the model.
So I want to get details crisp and work with a very light beige nuance,
that goes well with the darker wooden color and the grey.
When painting the deck, I leave a little black around all the details.
This will help enhance the effect of the wash applied later.
Results so far, and the deck is now ready for a wash.
I'm using a light brown wash working my way around
all the little details, and turret bases as well as the anchor chains.
I've favored GW's "Gryphonne Sepia" wash for the job.
The model after step 5.
STEP 6: HIGHLIGHTING THE HULL
Using a lighter nuance of grey, I trace all the edges
and sharp lines on the hull.
A little extra focus has been laid on tracing the hull edge
next to the light beige color of the deck. Again I try
to keep a little black between the two.
STEP 7: HIGHLIGHTING WOODEN & RUST DETAILS
Using a fine brush and lighter brown nuance, I carefully
dot on the paint to give the desired depth.
The model after highlighting.
STEP 8: HIGHLIGHTING THE DECK
Using a creamy beige, I trace the deck's edge towards the
hulls' edge - if I slip onto the little black line between, I repair afterwards.
The model after steps 6-7.
STEP 8: LIFE BOATS
I've seen some old colored post cards where the German
navy uses white life boats, so that's the color I'll stick with here.
OK, life boats done.
STEP 9: FURTHER RUST EFFECTS
Ships on the salty high seas did get rusty, and to simulate this I apply a
light coat of the brown wash around the anchors and also
on some of the porthole windows.
STEP 10: COMMAND BRIDGE AND SIGNALS
I'm assuming that the command bridge would have some fancy shiny wooden floor.
It might not be entirely historical, but looks great next to the gray and beige, so...
Ships used light signals and signal flags to communicate.
I'm applying a light blue to help the signal lamps stand out.
(If you like these kind of details, GHQ have it all included on the model, impressive)
The model after steps 8-10.
In the back the colors used for the command bridge
and signal lights.
STEP 11: ADDING THE KRUPP GUNS
What is a German warship without it's Krupp jewels?
Base coat of black is added after gluing them on.
Notice that when one turret will overlap another, I apply
them step by step.
The turrets get a base coat of gray and highlighting.
I'm using the same colors as for the hull.
STEP 12: AREAL IDENTIFICATION MARKINGS
I've seen a lot of BW areal photos of the Hochseeflotte,
and they all suggest that the German turrets were painted black
on the roof, while the forward and aft turret had a white circle painted.
This was for easy areal identification by compatriots.
The last gun is applied and highlighting is done.
STEP 13: THE FUNNELS
These were coal driven steam ships, and coal is black and dirty.
So, I use a little extra time adding details like a light drybrushing of black
to simulate some wear and tear.
The model after step 11-13.
STEP 14: PAINTING WATER
I'm using the Vallejo 898 Dark Sea Blue.
Not thinning the paint, I apply it in thick
lines at an angle to the boat. Building carefully
down the side of the hull, to give the effect of the water
pushed aside as the ship steams through it.
Another view at how the water is build
with waves using at thick paint.
The stern's push through the water creates a big front wave.
I'm creating this by applying an extra thick layer
of paint right at the front extending out to each side.
The finished effect.
STEP 15: HIGHLIGHTING WATER
I'm tracing up the now dried waves created
by the thick initial layer of VMC 898 paint.
For this I'm using a mix of VMC 898 and light grey.
Twirling and dotting out the paint on the wave tops,
and this is the end result.
STEP 16: WAVE TOPS & FOAM
A thick white paint is used, and dotted on with a 0/5 brush.
At the stern I'm dotting some white up the Hull, to create
that wave breaking splash effect of sea foam.
I trace out the former highlighted areas, dotting in some white.
The propeller splash is also added.
The result after steps 14-16.
STEP 17: RIGGING
Using a piece of black sewing thread,
I carefully tie a knot around the rear mast.
This will allow me to fasten an Imperial German flag later.
I do a second knot, and tighten it to make sure she stays put.
Using a small pair of scissors, I cut away any
surplus thread.
Using a sewing needle I dot some super glue
onto the back of the turret.
Using the back of my scalpel, I gentle press the
thread down on the glue dot.
Same procedure for the forward mast.
This rigging will be for signal flags.
Glue is dotted on, again using the tip of a sewing needle.
The scalpel is used to press down the thread on the glue.
Excess thread is cut away using the scissors.
The result after step 17.
Another view at the rigging.
STEP 18: FLAGS
This is actually an idea I got from my friend Jesper.
Using a simple marker tape to make flags.
Cutting out a little piece using the scalpel
and my daughters fancy ruler :0)
I carefully form the tape bit as a "V".
I hang the "V" upside down on the rigging.
I pinch the two sides of the "V" together to
form a small flag.
Using the scissors I cut the flag to the desired size.
My "Rigging Kit".
Two signal flags are added to the forward rigging.
The tape flags are painted in desired colors.
The finished result after step 18.
I have no idea what the signal flags mean, but they look the part.
Imperial German flag is painted up in the rear mast.
STEP 19: A GLOSSY COATING FOR THE WATER
I'm using a basic acrylic glossy coat to get the water
shiny and clear. I apply a thick initial coating, again moving the
brush away from the ship at an angle, to simulate the shape of waves.
After the initial coating has dried up, I apply a second coating.
The result after step 19.
The green blue sea color gets really deep and realistic
when the glossy coating is applied.
STEP 20: NAMING YOUR BABY
The old girl needs a name, right?
So - I created some name tags in InDesign
using Imperial German/Royal Navy flags.
Also, I couldn't resist using a gothic letter font
for the German names. Its all about adding that period spice.
STEP 21: STEAMING OUT OF WILHEMSHAVEN
The finished result.
On her maiden voyage to my gaming table!
Rear shot.
Front shot.
On the prowl for something to aim her guns at!
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR SUPPORT AND INTEREST IN MY WW1 NAVAL PROJECT.
HOPE THIS GUIDE WAS USEFUL.
CHEERS,
SÖREN
